The PlayBoy Bar : Rum

The juice on the juice
Slaves on 17th century Caribbean sugar plantations didn’t have easy lives. So it’s not surprising they found a way to dull the pain a bit by distilling fermented molasses (a by-product of sugar production) into what they called kill-devil. The earliest mention, from a 1651 logbook entry, describes it as a “hot, hellish and terrible liquor.” Which it undoubtedly was, but that didn’t stop Caribbean pirates from getting ripped to the tits on the stuff, burning villages to the ground and sailing back to Europe with hulls full of gold and booze. By the 18th century rum was the most popular liquor in the Colonies, with thousands of distilleries tucked among the whorehouses of New England’s port towns. Business waned during the 19th century, but after Prohibition rum made a comeback. We now consume more of it than any other country, but only in the past decade has there been a stable of widely available connoisseur-level rums. We figured it was high time to salute the preferred hooch of sailors, beach bums and anyone else with devils to kill.

White rum
Often referred to as light or silver rum, this subtle, sweet and clear spirit is the foundation of most rumbased cocktails. White rum is typically aged for a short time in uncharred oak casks or stainless-steel tanks. This liquor comes cheap, but we suggest you spend the extra 10 bucks for Platino Matusalem ($32).

Gold rum
This category is sometimes referred to as amber, but either way, the rums in it spend a few years in charred bourbon barrels, which impart the eponymous gold color while blunting the spirit’s inherent sweetness. It has a slightly more robust flavor than white and is used mostly for making mixed drinks. See Bacardi Gold ($13).

Spiced rum
A category that emerged in the mid- 20th century, spiced rums are gold ones that have been infused with various flavors, most commonly cinnamon, vanilla, caramel and a variety of fruits. You can find some real clunkers in this aisle, but you’re safe in the hands of Sailor Jerry ($20) or the ubiquitous Captain Morgan ($19).

Dark rum
Dark rum is aged at least three years in heavily charred oak barrels and carries a complex flavor profile that can rival your better whiskeys. The extra aging mellows it out and brings the sweetness back. Though it can be mixed, it’s best sipped neat, on the rocks or with a squeeze of lime. Try Cruzan Single Barrel ($25).

Super-aged rum
This relatively new category includes hooch that has been in the barrel even longer, usually for five or more years, to bring out more flavor. Though it can be produced from a single spirit, more often than not it is a blend of oldies but goodies. Mount Gay’s 1703 Old Cask Selection ($100) is a good place to start.